Where do I start?
These past two weeks have been truly eye-opening, and having Jerusalem as my playground is a spectacular experience which I truly appreciate. Settling in to my new home, Beit Shmuel is located in such a great area of Jerusalem! We have a great view of the Old City, and we are about a ten minute walk away from the Kotel (Western Wall). We are also a five minute walk away from a very popular place to hang out called Ben Yehuda Street.
The second night in Jeru we walked about ten minutes to a neighborhood which has many nice places to eat and is parallel to old train tracks. It also has a beautiful running trail that many of us like to run on.
On Friday, the 11th we walked to a street called Machene Yehuda. It is basically a street full of fresh food vendors and cheap shops. In Israel we call it a shuk, (שוק), which translates to a marketplace. You can find such delicious fruits and veggies there. A challenge is walking through the market without bumping into people. If you are a claustrophobic individual, it may not be the best place for you, although it's a wonderful and unique Israeli experience if you give it a shot. For Shabbat I went to a modern orthodox synagogue (shul) with other people on Kivunim, in which the girls and boys sat separately. I love exploring new synagogues around the world, so I can gain a better understanding for how diverse Jewish culture is. The next day I went to the Kotel to pray/reflect with one of my best friends. It will always be a vivid experience in my mind because on our way to and from we had a very deep conversation about the meaning behind living a purposeful and happy life.
The cool thing about living in Jeru is that we walk to get most places in the city so we really get to be outside in nature. Although all my classes are at my hostel, I make sure I get out and explore Jeru every single day.
Days are long and challenging, but insightful. Mondays to Wednesdays we have Arabic and Hebrew language classes in the morning. Monday, Wednesday, and Thursday we typically have "Civilization & Society" and "Perspectives on the Middle East" seminars/lectures in the afternoon.
On Tuesdays I have about a 3-5 hour social responsibility commitment, in which eleven other Kivunimers and I volunteer at a special place in Jerusalem called "The Meeting Point." It is a place east of my hostel, which is close to the Israeli-Jordanian border (this area was once referred to as "No Man's Land" when Israel and Jordan was in conflict). It is this open field where people of different ethnicity and faiths can come together to hang out and converse with each other through different events offered. The vision of "The Meeting Point" is to provoke conversation, mutual understanding, and entertainment. Hopefully this project will be able to inspire more parts of Jerusalem to work on coexistence. Another place where coexistence can be found in Jerusalem is by the old train tracks and the running/biking path I mentioned before. There, Israelis and Palestinians use the path to exercise on, or just take nice peaceful walks with their family & friends. It's a very cool place to observe the diversity of divided cultures that have the potential to find peace. Although the Israeli-Palestinian conflict is super complex, I am a big believer that the problem is possible to solve.
Back to "The Meeting Point:" it's in a really fantastic location because it is at a point where the Old City intersects with the New City, and where the eastern Palestinian side of Jerusalem meet the western predominantly Israeli side of the city. "The Meeting Point" is pretty much an open field with a stone amphitheater and potential for many building projects, which is where we volunteers come into the equation. This field is part of a very fascinating community called Musrara neighborhood and "The Meeting Point" holds events and is open to the everyday curious explorer.
http://www.muslala.org/en
The first day of my social responsibility on Tuesday, October 15th was a very interesting experience. We got a tour of the cultured neighborhood which has deep historical roots. At one point it was a luxurious place for people to reside close to the Old City, and there was also a time period where people in poverty flocked to the area to live. Nowadays there is a mix of cultures and social class, and the neighborhood is sprinkled with beautiful artwork outside. The theory is that art is a universal language that unifies many different cultures together, because it invokes thinking from the heart and soul, and makes us realize that we are all humans who have a huge capacity for creativity. Humans are the architects of this world, and it is up to all of us as a unified body to build a diverse community with good moral values. Musrara also has a beautiful garden, a woodworking space, and dwellings that naturally flow from one to the other, with balconies and connectors from one house to the next. Vines organically grow on fences, and laundry drys out in the splendid Jerusalem air. Houses seem to be squeezed into little nooks and crannies, and unique artwork is everywhere. The labyrinth of the neighborhood makes it all the more lovely, making you feel like one visit is not as satisfying as going back continuously to explore the enigma further. There is a small central park where I saw an orthodox family around the playground, the children frolicking and being kids. Then right next to them we saw more people, possibly Palestinian or Israeli, it does not really make a difference. In this neighborhood, everyone gets along. It is a model for the rest of Jerusalem and Israel.
"Out beyond ideas of wrongdoing and rightdoing there is a field. I will meet you there." Jalal A-Din Rumi (1207-1273): Persian poet & mystic
Pictures from the first day at Musrara:
A tree that has been modified by a few artists; every artist contributes their own style to the tree I consider it to be the "tree of diversity" |
My Kivu group having fun and being kids |
Workshop |
Garden |
The founder of "The Meeting Point" also came for a little bit to watch us make the mixture, and his baby son and his cute dog were also present to keep us company and put smiles on our face. The five hours I spent working there were definitely one of my best memories yet on Kivunim: people, nature, and building are some of my favorite things about life!
Elephant poop pellets!!! |
Breaking apart elephant poop! |
Last week's Shabbat (Friday, October 18th) was very nice. My Palestinian friend on the program introduced me to his mom and sister, who came from Chicago to spend the week in Israel. His sister Isabella is such a cute seven-year old , and is so sweet to be around. Her mom is also a doll, and I showed them my room, Isabella responding by saying she wants to have a sleepover with me one night (because she noticed I had a bunk bed). A few of us went to one of the staff member's house for a beautiful Shabbat dinner.
It was so nice to take about a 30 minute walk to her house as the sun was setting, and we were welcomed into her house to find her husband, her daughter, and her reading a bedtime story followed by the Shema. Her little daughter was going to bed, and the Shema is a Jewish prayer many say before sleep. It was just one of those beautiful family moments that I had the chance to witness. The dinner was amazing, and the conversations we had were intellectual and symbolic. We talked about the week's Torah portion.
Sunday, October 20th
So on our way to Beit She'an, looking out the window we saw the Jeziree valley to the left, and the Jordan valley to the right. We were driving in a deep valley that at one point in time was an active earthquake zone.
Beit She'an was a Roman city for about 1000 years, and in 749 C.E. was taken over by the Byzantine empire. The Greeks built the city in the first place. For Christians and Muslims, Beit She'an was actually the most important city for about 1000 years. It was important because it was a great water source because the Kinneret water runs down the Jordan River, and served as the only trade route to Syria. The Roman king Herod was able to make a connection between two great empires, in Egypt and Babylon (Persia), giving his civilization a very fertile and plentiful experience living in Beit She'an.
We went to Beit She'an, Gan Hashlosha (Sakhne), and Beit Alpha.Beit She'an is a city of layers that has been controlled and altered by various civilizations throughout history. In the Tanakh (also known as the Hebrew Bible), this city is named Beit She'an. But for other civilizations, like during the Roman and Byzantine periods, the city was called Scythopolis.
We then drove to Gan Hashlosha to swim in a natural spring. The water temperature is 82 degrees Fahrenheit year round! There were cute fishies swimming around with us, and there were some water caves to relax in.
We finally went to Beit Alpha, to explore a temple that was uncovered in Kibbutz Heftsiba while a swamp was being dug up, and a beautiful mosaic-zodiac-tiled floor was discovered. What makes this temple such a phenomenon is that in Judaism traditionally we are a non-iconic religion, and in temples we do not put up pictures of things and people. So how did we even know this was a temple versus a church or other holy site? Well, on the top of the mosaic there lies engravings of roaring lions, two menorot, and the Holy Ark (bingo; these are all indications of Jewish influence). Also, on the bottom of the mosaic there is a depiction of the classic scene in the Torah when Abraham is about to sacrifice Isaac. So the conclusion can be drawn that the presence of the zodiac signs (which must have been largely influenced by the European mysticism more than 1400 years ago) implies that this was a pagan temple. It is fascinating to see how religions and cultures influence one another.
Friday, October 26th
(Weekend in Tiberias, a religious city on the coast of The Sea of Galilee)
Thursday, October 31st
Today we two other Kivunim students and I woke up early to meet our Arabic teacher at a United Nation Security Council Conference for Resolution 1325 held at the beautiful Jaffa port (which is on the Mediterranean coast and right by Tel Aviv! Jaffa (Yafo) is the older cobblestone-based part of Tel Aviv. It is an amazing place to explore.
At the conference: Women leaders at the forefront of promoting women's equality rights spoke about the comprehensive action plan for the resolution. My lovely Arabic teacher Amal is an Arab-Israeli who promotes peaceful coexistence between Palestinians and Israelis. We also met her daughter who is also an advocate for peace.
Excerpt from my diary:
Today we got lost in a maze of beautiful old Jaffa stone corridors that twisted, turned, and went up and down until we finally found our way out to the port where we would meet Amal at the UNSC Resolution 1325 Conference.
The intention of the journey was to learn more about the presence of women at the steering wheel of politics and how full women's equality in countries represented in the UN would be mandatory and enforced.
Amal believes that we need to learn more about the present political events in Israel in order to become more active in advocating for the peace process. I could not agree more. Kivunim is of course about learning about past and present cultures and is bolstered by our opportunity to travel a lot outside of Israel, but it is also our responsibility to truly become informed about the current affairs in the Middle East and Israel. On Kivunim we are taking a course called "Perspectives of the Middle East," and we have a very good professor who is helping us become more knowledgeable about the Middle Eastern issues and how we can advocate for peace.